Friday, 6 October 2017

Albania - 25th September to 2nd October 2017

Sunday September 24th saw us heading up to Gatwick Airport for an overnight stay before flying to Tirana, the capital of Albania, the next morning. Albania was chosen as our holiday destination as it seemed to be quite an interesting country on flicking through a travel guide book and being on the Mediterranean Sea it would fill in a blank on our bucket list tour to visit all the countries with such a coastline (only Syria and Algeria to go!). The drive to Gatwick was uneventful and I managed sightings of 2 red kites along the M3, red legged partridges in fields near Stonehenge and the usual assorted roadkill.

On arriving in Tirana it was dark and raining and so after hitting the hotel bar to sample Albanian wine, Albanian beer and Albanian raki (a grappa like spirit) we slept like logs to awaken the next morning to sunny skies and stunning city and mountain views from the window of our hotel bedroom.

Albania was a very interesting place, lots of ancient history and ruins alongside some dark and sad recent times and a very untouristy feel. We spent the week in Tirana and went out on various day trips including to Durres on the coast which we ended up visiting on 3 of our 7 days in Albania - 150 Lek (£1) each and 30 minutes away by shared taxi on a fast motorway with a 2nd Century AD Roman amphitheatre and a nice promenade and beach to keep us occupied along with a chilled out atmosphere.

Skanderbeg Square,Tirana

Tirana from the Sky Bar

Durres Beach

Durres Amphitheatre

The Amphitheatre was very interesting despite being in a poor condition and provided me with some great butterfly sightings although they were very active in the hot sunshine.

Common Blue

Clouded Yellow sp.

Scarce Swallowtail

Scarce Swallowtail

Pygmy Skipper

Pygmy Skipper

Dragonfly sp.

Dragonfly sp.

Large Skipper

Wall

Mallow Skipper

Hummingbird Hawkmoth

Oberthur's Grizzled Skipper

Southern Comma

Another interesting day out was a trip up Mount Dajti overlooking Tirana on a 4+km long cable car where it was cooler and quieter than the hustle and bustle of the city we were looking down on. Again butterflies were flitting about to keep me occupied including great banded graylings, a new butterfly for me. A nice surprise were 2 wood warblers feeding in the trees with blackcaps, great tits and blue tits before disappearing amongst the leaves - I had found a birding blog on the internet before we went away and it mentioned wood warblers breeding on the mountain so the sighting wasn't totally unexpected but they were very nice to see. Also seen were a raven, nuthatches, greenfinch, chaffinch, jays, blackbirds, long tailed tits, swallows, house martins and collared doves - all very familiar birds despite the unusual setting.

Bee sp.

Hoverfly sp.

Painted Lady

Grasshopper sp.

Squill sp.?

Firebug

Meadow Brown

Crocus sp.

Firebugs

Silver Washed Fritillary

Great Banded Grayling

Great Banded Grayling

Great Banded Grayling

Great Banded Grayling

Great Banded Grayling

I did manage to drag myself out of bed early one morning to walk around the large park complete with large lake at the back of our hotel and saw some good birds - a lesser spotted woodpecker (I'd forgotten how tiny they are!), 2 probable Syrian woodpeckers (or great spotted woodpeckers) playing hide and seek in the trees and giving brief and obscured views only, kingfishers, a common sandpiper, a grey heron, grey wagtails, a male white wagtail, little grebes, lots of spotted flycatchers and there were more wood warblers giving themselves away in the treetops with their plaintive "peu" calls.

Kingfisher

Kingfisher

Spotted Flycatcher

Little Grebe

Lesser Spotted Woodpecker 

The highlight were 2 pygmy cormorants on the lake, easily overlooked amongst the numerous coot out on the water as they dived for fish amongst them. They were coot sized too and spent little time at the surface before flying off and out of sight but later they flew back in and landed in a dead tree at the waters edge where 3 more birds were already roosting. The views were unfortunately a little distant but they were a nice find.

Pygmy Cormorant

Pygmy Cormorants

Pygmy Cormorants

Pygmy Cormorants

On one of our days we took an organised day trip to the city of Berat, a UNESCO world heritage site and a very interesting and beautiful city. On the 2 hour drive to Berat from Tirana I managed to see bee-eaters, crested larks, Alpine swifts, hooded crows, cattle egrets and a distant harrier sp. from the car and in the castle at Berat more butterflies were flitting about including Bath whites and a stunning swallowtail. Our guide/driver Isuf had grown up in the castle at Berat and told us the tales of his childhood which really brought the place to life.

The City of Berat from the Castle

Berat

Swallowtail

After a delicious lunch at the Onufri restaurant in the castle (included in the trip) we drove on to the ruins of the ancient city of Apollonia, a massive site that is mostly unexcavated. It was very interesting with a small musueum showcasing finds from the site but needed a lot of imagination to realise the layout. The highlight for me though were 2 Hermann's tortoises busily munching away on leaves amongst the ruins and oblivious to the people around them.

Apollonia

Herrman's Tortoise

Herrman's Tortoises

Hermann's Tortoise

Hermann's Tortoise

And so it was a very enjoyable time away  with a few interesting wildlife sightings despite being based in the busy, dusty, noisy capital city with busy roads and crazy drivers. All too soon it was time to head back to the UK and on the drive back to Plymouth from Gatwick on Tuesday 3rd October I managed to see 3 red kites along the A303, a nice end to our trip.






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